Travel log, star date ... one million and.. five...

Early on the 6th of February me and my travel companion took off in a snowy blizzard from Kyoto to Osaka. It took no less than three trains to reach our first destination and on the way we met a nice man from California who engaged us in conversation about WWII. He had some weird ideas of Britain plotting to take over the world but still, I always enjoy random conversations with complete strangers, something that happens a lot here because it´s easy for foreigners to spot each other here.

From Osaka we took a ferry to Beppu, a small town on the east coast of Kyushu. I spent the night envying the people who had ordered private rooms as we were stashed in a big common room for the night, equipped only with a hanger, extra thin futons, blankets and a green plastic "pillow". Nevertheless it delighted me to no end how Japanese the ship was, jidohanbaiki (vending machines) were littered throughout the hallways, people had slippers and yukata on as they wandered around the ship, and there was even an onsen on board. I laughed under my breath when I walked past the claw machines and other games, in the corner was a man playing Pachinko, a favorite past-time of many Japanese. I guess he couldn´t bear the thought of spending six hours on a ferry and not playing... 

We arrived in Beppu the next day, somewhere around the devilish hour of 7 a.m. As we walked to our hostel the town got increasingly more lively. The first thing I noticed in Beppu was how different the people were. I had hear stories about the people of Kyoto being a bit stuck-up and reserved and how in the south they were much more warm and open. The first restaurant we went into we got drink tickets as a gift from the man on the next table, and everywhere we went people were so eager to talk to us and help us. I bought some makeup in Nagasaki and ended up talking to the two women selling it to me for over twenty minutes because they were so excited that I could speak Japanese and wanted to know about the place I came from. I was happy to get the practice. :P

This first day of our legendary trip we spent roaming the streets of Beppu until the evening. There was a lot to see, many onsens to swim around in and museums to explore. We visited about four of the six hells of Beppu (really hot springs), one of which that had alligators, took many pictures and the most unnecessary bus ride ever, took a mud bath and tested the onsens.
The mud bath was quite the experience, first you bathe in scalding hot water and then you go down into this big pool of murky water where you can bury yourself in hot, earthy mud. There was even a mixed bath outside. Oh the bliss of lying in the hot hot water, facing the sun, burying my toes in the mud.... You can also go take a sand bath where they bury you in hot sand for a short while but we opted for the normal onsen instead and got some tips on bathing etiquette from the obaachans (old ladies) that were taking their morning dip in the burning water.
I recommend Beppu for anyone who is traveling around Kyushu, the pure white smoke coming out of every pore of the city, fresh sea air, interesting museums, mountain view etc.

The next day we wanted to go see Mt. Aso but the train from Beppu left so late it was already dark by the time we got there so we just kept going all the way to Kumamoto. The train ride took about 5 or 6 hours so we got an amazing, scenic tour of the countryside, the misty mountains, huge fields, endless forests and small towns. On one of the stops I saw two school girls waiting for the next train, one of them suddenly stands up, sees me and nods her head in eishaku (nodding of the head in greeting), I do the same, she flashes me a big smile, waves and runs away. As I was waving back I couldn´t help think how genki (err.... energetic and happy) the people here are. Many of them have never seen a foreigner before so they get very excited and curious when they see you.

Now, on to Kumamoto!

Well rested from all the hot water we left arrived at Kumamoto around seven p.m.
The hostel we got was by far the best one on the trip as it was a private house of a family of three; Jay from America, his Japanese wife and their son. They teach English in Kumamoto and rent out a big room on the upper floor of this over 100 year old house. A very Japanese experience indeed!
We went to explore the town, had the best ramen I have had since coming to Japan, and went back to make our beds for the evening. What was supposed to be a short conversation with Jay for directions etc turned into a four hour plus talk. He treated us to wine from California, strawberries, and some home-made mikan sake (Japanese alcohol made from mandarins). It was thrilling to hear of his very exciting life, I only hope to become such a seasoned traveler one day.... ;)
I highly recommend staying at their house if you ever find yourself in Kumamoto, they are so hospitable and nice. Apparenly if you let them know you are coming in beforehand they cook dinner and make breakfast for you. :) In the morning Jay´s wife gave us home-made cookies and he proceeded to drive us to the ferry station the next morning as it was raining quite heavily. We left Kumamoto high spirited!

That´s enough for now, more on the trip tomorrow. Oh, and if anyone wants travel info (hostels, ferries, prices etc. comment below).